Greek Sketch Odyssey - Part 1
When I was 18, I spent a summer on the island of Rhodes, Greece. Over 20 years later, in June of 2024, I fulfilled a dream to return. Instead of hunkering down in one place (or laying on the beach) I rented a car and spent 10 days cruising around the Greek mainland, visiting ancient sites, hiking to the top of ancient acropolises in 100-degree heat, and visiting museums.
Instead of snapping selfies for social media like other tourists, I sat with a leather-bound sketchbook and a pile of watercolor markers and sketched. As both a professional architect and an amateur figure sculptor, both the ruins and the museums were of equal interest. If other human beings were there too, I hardly noticed.
A map of my route, my sketchbook, and trusty fedora.
A rocky place to dip on the West shore en route to the Temple of Poseidon.
Arriving in Athens, I visited the Acropolis. At one point a middle-aged woman approached me; she was a docent and told me that colored markers are not allowed at World Heritage Sites. She left in a huff to get security, but as I had already been drawing for several hours in the hot sun, I decided it was a good time to made my way off the hill.
Other sites I visited in Athens included the Roman Odeon, the Dionysus Theater, the Hadrian’s Library, the Roman Agora, the Horologion of Andronikos, The Temple of Hephaistos, and the Jail of Socrates. I then visited the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch before renting a car and heading South to visit the Temple of Poseidon.
On the way, I jumped in the ocean.
The museums in Athens were spectacular, and included the National Archeological Museum, Agora Museum, and Acropolis Museum (which has a full-scale reconstruction of the entire Parthenon frieze with reproductions of marbles now in the UK). Several important sculptures I remember from studying classical Greece in college, such as the Kritios Boy.
With a rented car I hit the countryside, visiting Ancient Corinth (including the Temple of Apollo) and Ancient Mycenae on the way to Napflio.
I spent the evening walking around the old town. In the morning I visited the Fortess of Palamidi on the hill, then on to the Temple of Epidaurous to see the famous amphitheater.
Sunset at Mystras
After lunch in Tropoli I landed at Mystras, which was so beautiful that I decided to stay for an unplanned overnight.
Stay tuned for the next segment, starting with my hike through the ancient Byzantine convent in ancient Mystras, then on to Messene, Olympia, and Delphi.
Thanks for reading!
Brett Holverstott
AirModern Architecture.